tiffany Michael Kors

May 20, 2017

Early motorcycle jackets from the late 1920s were styled after aviator gear (Amelia Earhart looks forever cool in hers). By the time Marlon Brando wore his body-conscious black Schott jacket in the 1953 movie, “The Wild Ones,” he caused a sensation. But the garment had yet to hit a runway until a few years later, in 1958, when Yves Saint Laurent, then designing for Dior, had the revolutionary idea to show beatnik-inspired biker jackets on the catwalk. He took lots of heat for that – and took fashion to a place it had never been.

Some designers who did the trend the best this season include John Galliano at Hermes, who showed aviator-inspired, fur-collared crocodile bombers; Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi, whose thick black leather bomber comes with a ruffle of suede fringe to frame the face. Smaller designers, like former Y & Kei designer Hanii Yoon (Michelle Obama has worn her line, Hanii Y.), came up with a tough-looking green-gray motorcycle jacket with a puckered collar, zip-front, tight sleeves and a detachable lace collar. Christophe Decarin at Balmain added pointed, peaked shoulders to his series of biker jackets. Stefano Pilati at YSL opened his fall show with a series of leather jackets, pants and skirts and brought back Mr. Saint Laurent’s landmark motorcycle, done this time in soft black leather with a studded collar.

But the leather trend doesn’t stop with jackets. Pilati sent out one of the most photographed looks from the Paris runways, a buttery black leather bustier bodysuit that zips up the front. More leather looks on the major runways included lots of wide leather obi-style belts that cinch the waist and look great with another trend, a strong-shouldered white shirt and a black pencil skirt.Michael Kors did sexy black leather cocktail sheaths. Oscar de la Renta’s show featured hard-edge tall boots with lots of studs. Also back on the runway, but in longer, stronger forms, were thick leather gloves for just a touch of toughness.For now, at least, tough is as chic as it gets – we’ll take no lip about it.

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