The most coveted items right now at Jeffrey’s, the up-to-the-second multilabel boutique in the meatpacking district, a salesperson tells me, are Dries Van Noten’s gorgeous $700 full skirts in faded florals or folkloric prints, and high-wedgie shoes, which outnumber all other shoes in the store for spring.All the full skirts that were on the runways for fall are there because he started this look a while back, and it continues to be a huge influence.Soft, full skirts, some with pleating, some silky and swingy or with gathered bubbled hems, are on so many runways today, it’s hard to keep track. Michael Kors showed what he calls “dance” skirts in silver crystal and lace, and other skirts in black silk faille with pockets, or in luxe broadtail — a particularly opulent look, that’s for sure.
Anna Sui did them in pretty metallic taffetas, and Lela Rose, the designer who has dressed the Bush twins, did her versions of the full skirt in olive metallic herringbone, and in a peacock print silk.They are paired most often with a skinny cashmere sweater, a little tank and cardigan, or a short, flirty jacket.Jacquards are emerging as a big trend for fall and are on many a runway, including Sui’s skinny gold jacquard pants. Rose also made use of jacquard in a metallic diamond jacquard printed skirt and a gray embroidered jacquard sheath dress with an empire waist, another trend.Rose does a full palette: full trousers in a pretty salt and pepper metallic fabric, heavily jeweled bib necklaces she shows with slinky evening gowns, full skirts in herringbone and pleated silk, a sparkly olive metallic herringbone coat, sequined bustiers, cute textured jackets and jacquard skirts. That’s almost all the trends of the fall season right on one runway.These looks are surely going to be knocked off for fall at Club Monaco, Anthropologie, Urban Outfitters, etc.The newlywed Trumps look on from the front row at the Kors show, who dips into a military theme, with a military coat with red piping and other military- inspired jackets, and does something new with ski pants.
The women’s are slim, low-waisted and boot cut. They’re paired with a cashmere pullover and, of course, a big fur coat thrown nonchalantly over the shoulders.Behnaz Sarafpour (the in-house designer at Barneys) goes Moroccan in her own fall collection with what are described in her program notes as “beduin” skirts and dresses that sport small, colorful pom-poms or ivory tassel trims. There’s a black caftan with gold foil decoration, lots of coin necklace jewelry and all the models wear flat beaded Moroccan-like slippers in a range of wonderful colors, from pale silvery blue to deep maroon.Half the models I saw leaving the venue were stuffing a pair or two in their bags to take home. These little shoes, like a beaded ballet flat, will look fabulous with jeans or full skirts.These shoes seem to be in every shoe store here in New York; you can probably find similar ones in Indian neighborhoods.Sui does a very cute, very polished show with wonderful fabrics, like chocolate lame tweeds, berry-print silk chiffons, gold taffetas and gold jacquard that she cuts into slim, sexy pants, pairing it with a hot pink jeweled cardigan and a tangerine silk charmeuse bow blouse. There’s multistrand necklaces, baby-doll tops and embellished smocks — but on Naomi Campbell, an old friend who always opens and closes Sui’s shows, even a smock looks good.For those of you in San Francisco who would like to knock off that look, one word: Chinatown.