hinds Michael Kors
Uncategorized / April 18, 2017

The happiness of ladies which Zola pinned on the grands magasins is displayed to full effect at Stella 34, a startlingly good restaurant perched on the sixth floor of Macy’s in Herald Square. There’s an express elevator to the trattoria from the building’s nose, at Broadway and Thirty-fifth Street, which bypasses the perfume sellers, the fur salon, the opaque taxonomy of women’s attire (“impulse casual,” “junior misses”). But most of the diners seem to have fully committed to the experience: staggering off the rickety wooden escalator, through the linen department next door, travelling in multigenerational packs whose collective optimism faded two floors ago. Who said shopping was fun, again? Fortunately, a soothing menu of Italian standards awaits. The executive chef, Jarett Appell, seems to understand what is demanded from the department-store restaurant: nostalgia, fried calamari, chopped salads interesting enough to be entrées. And yet dishes consistently produce yelps of delight from the table, as with a B.L.T. on pagnotelle bread, a blistered house-made pocket of pure crunch. Or the vitello tonnato, dressed with a light tuna-confit vinaigrette rather than with the usual sludgy mayonnaise. Of the pizzas coming out of three wood-burning ovens, the one with cauliflower, cream, and Meyer…