Kors gave it to them. With his 1998 fall collection, which he called Sundance Chic, he challenged leading American designersRalph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan. He’s still giving it to them, with his signature Michael Kors line (sold atSaks Fifth Avenue) and the French-owned Celine line.Michael Kors coats If there is any crossover, it’s because America finally has caught up with what the French have known for years – that women have a contradictory nature that comes out in the way they dress. “The most interesting women I know are all dressed that way,” says Kors. “Women are not willing to let go of comfort. They want indulgent and practical; tailored and sexy – a cashmere T-shirt with an extravagant skirt.”
I call Kors’ latest collection – a graphic depiction of New York life – “Limo Lady” clothes because they have been designed with entrances in mind. Skirts are shorter (to make getting out of cars easier); lines are sharper. And the patterns – from the boyish camel and gray argyles to gray/black/white motifs borrowed from the deco ziggurats of the Chrysler Building – bespeak uptown clothes with downtown comfort. Femininity with a menswear edge.That Kors loves New York is obvious from the first strains of Gershwin’s “Rhapsody in Blue,” Michael Kors coats which introduces his runway show, to the tilt of a model’s Sinatraesque fedora. These are clothes that work because they are simple, well-tailored and fairly limited in color-range, making them easily mix-matchable.
Michael Kors coats Designed mostly in shades of black, white and gray, Kors has slipped in vivid color every so often – a fuchsia satin halter cocktail dress here, burgundy chevroned leather there (set off with a “fluffy” of black and white ostrich feathers). Slinky evening dresses were saved for the end of the show, with gold or silver sequins sewn on tissue-thin jersey that fit as comfortably as a well-worn Gap T-shirt.But it’s Kors’ reds that are so exciting – they are shades so vibrant and powerful, you’d think they’d been designed by Charles Revson to go with Love That Red lipstick.To accent the collection, Kors had jeweler Janice Savitt make flashy hip belts out of cubic zirconia with matching bracelets and ropes of giant “pearls” worn like bibs down the front of slinky black or white satin blouses open to the waist.